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I don't really remember Dumbiedykes, a slummy but charming area at the foot of the dramatic volcanic landscape of Queen's Park, Edinburgh, Scotland. It was demolished when I was 2. But, prompted by an interesting post by [livejournal.com profile] niddrie_edge, I spent quite a while this morning looking at photos of it on the fascinating EdinPhoto website, which documents my hometown.



Dumbiedykes was a fairly typical Edinburgh high-density, high-atmosphere tenement district. Looking at pictures now, of course, humdrum details are endlessly evocative: a Direct Supply Carpets lorry sitting in the dreich Edinburgh drizzle, a Tizer lemonade van parked on precipitous Arthur Street outside a William Younger bar. ("McEwan's is the best buy, the best buy in beer!") The stories of people who were there are also fascinating, as they peek into Baxendale's cardboard box factory (you can see its skylights in the top photo here) or steal eggs from a runaway Sunblest bread van.

I didn't really know Dumbiedykes, but I remember watching entire districts of Stockbridge being demolished in the late 1960s, dignified stone terraces full of the kind of atmosphere and spirit of place and community you see here. Just like Dumbiedykes, they were replaced by horrible flimsy structures which haven't stood the test of time well and won't be remembered fondly by anybody. (Had they let the "slums" at Salisbury Square stand, though, the city commissioners might have been amazed to discover that its dramatic setting would have bumped the prices there up to levels way beyond what the likes of me could afford by the turn of the century.)

Looking at these photos, I can't help thinking that my lifetime hasn't just seen the erasure of specific places, but of a certain idea of place itself. It's not just that particular streets and districts have changed their appearance, but that the whole concept of roots, space, place, being and belonging, have exploded. I know they have in my life. I've chosen to live far from the town where I grew up, with people of different cultures and races.

Fishing around for a photograph of Dumbiedykes in my own archives, I found one with a Japanese friend in the foreground. I think that says a great deal about the connections of people to places now. When I go back to Edinburgh now, I'm mostly showing it to Japanese people. I've internalized their expectations and tastes. (Not that I always get those right: in my Edinburgh podcast you can hear how terrified Hisae was on the Salisbury Crags path that overlooks Dumbiedykes.)



Places now live by the perceptions of people from the other side of the world as much as by the perceptions of their own residents, which is why, when I go back to Edinburgh now, I get -- rather than the city I once knew -- "the Edinburgh Experience", a highly self-conscious, cleverly mediated spectral city-shaped self-projection. Hogmanay, the Scottish New Year celebration, for instance, has changed in my lifetime from a bunch of drunk locals kissing strangers on the High Street to a micro-managed spectacle involving live music projected onto giant screens, co-ordinated with computer-controlled firework displays over a city centre cordoned off and tightly controlled by the police. A spectacle designed for, and capable of drawing, people from all over the world. People like me, in other words, net-and-jet people who arrive via airports and whose nostalgia for place is kindled by, and mediated through, websites. People who have an "estimated time of arrival" (ETA) and a "point of presence" (POP) rather than any sort of roots in blood and soil, bricks and mortar.

I don't say we ETA-POP net-and-jet people are bad; this is just the way things are, and the way we are now. Ultimately I wouldn't want a life with roots in Dumbiedykes in exchange for the opportunities I've had to experience -- and feel at home in -- Japan and all the other countries I visit. But it's a pretty big change to have happened in just one lifetime. We didn't just change places, we changed place.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 07:09 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
To quote my grandfather who grew up in a place much like Dumbiedykes, "People who are nostalgic for old slums probably never had to live there". There's nothing quaint about a run down rat hole.

slums

Date: 2006-12-11 07:40 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
It doesn't have to be run down though. One big difference between a slum and a non-slum is maintenance. Nostalgia for a slum happens if you are moved into a place that turns out to be worse.
I live in what might be a slum - on a council estate of 4 story blocks in Lambeth - but really it's fine. Probably not good if you have kids, though.

Re: slums

Date: 2006-12-11 07:42 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Maybe that should be "Storey". There are many more than four stories in our block.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 08:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Yes, I think in terms of the building fabric, those 19th century buildings are just a lot more durable than the 1960s structures put up to replace them. With a little renovation of the existing housing stock, Dumbiedykes could have become a very desireable area. Of course, that wasn't the 1960s way. There was a certain tabula rasa approach which, in some lights, could be seen as admirable (in a Tokyo sort of way).

There's an argument for saying the shitty 1960s housing has kept the area fairly working-class, demographically, and that inner city areas close to desireable amenities (the Dynamic Earth centre, the Scottish Parliament, Arthur's Seat) never have enough working class people in them. So, er, hurrah!

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 09:16 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
In fairness to him I don't think Nick is trying to portray poverty in that way, he just chooses Dumbiedykes as a starting point for an interesting peramble.
What he was indicating was the lack of foresight of city planners who saw fit to demolish an area comprising buildings of potential charm and durability, replacing them instead with ugly mass produced housing units.
In other words doing what successive governments in the U.K. and in Ireland- where I live- have done for decades...demolishing the tenements of poverty, the superficial manifestations of poverty but ignoring the root causes of this poverty.
Thomas Scott.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 09:21 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Sorry,above is a response to the anonymous contributor who relates his grandfather's (understandable) response to the romancing of slum living.

slums

Date: 2006-12-11 09:25 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Yes! High-rise flats are generally thought to be awful, but the new(ish) flats in the Barbican are high-rise and seems to be wonderful. High prestige, as well as high-rise. And well-built, I assume - none of that getting council officials pissed before signing the planning agreements, so they don't see the cheapness of the materials, etc.
Our flats (I mean the 4 storey blocks in Lambeth) were built in the 30s and are wonderfully designed - very small, but the space well used, and the basic structure is bloody good - some small faults that are easily repaired, but nothing big.

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