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I don't really remember Dumbiedykes, a slummy but charming area at the foot of the dramatic volcanic landscape of Queen's Park, Edinburgh, Scotland. It was demolished when I was 2. But, prompted by an interesting post by [livejournal.com profile] niddrie_edge, I spent quite a while this morning looking at photos of it on the fascinating EdinPhoto website, which documents my hometown.



Dumbiedykes was a fairly typical Edinburgh high-density, high-atmosphere tenement district. Looking at pictures now, of course, humdrum details are endlessly evocative: a Direct Supply Carpets lorry sitting in the dreich Edinburgh drizzle, a Tizer lemonade van parked on precipitous Arthur Street outside a William Younger bar. ("McEwan's is the best buy, the best buy in beer!") The stories of people who were there are also fascinating, as they peek into Baxendale's cardboard box factory (you can see its skylights in the top photo here) or steal eggs from a runaway Sunblest bread van.

I didn't really know Dumbiedykes, but I remember watching entire districts of Stockbridge being demolished in the late 1960s, dignified stone terraces full of the kind of atmosphere and spirit of place and community you see here. Just like Dumbiedykes, they were replaced by horrible flimsy structures which haven't stood the test of time well and won't be remembered fondly by anybody. (Had they let the "slums" at Salisbury Square stand, though, the city commissioners might have been amazed to discover that its dramatic setting would have bumped the prices there up to levels way beyond what the likes of me could afford by the turn of the century.)

Looking at these photos, I can't help thinking that my lifetime hasn't just seen the erasure of specific places, but of a certain idea of place itself. It's not just that particular streets and districts have changed their appearance, but that the whole concept of roots, space, place, being and belonging, have exploded. I know they have in my life. I've chosen to live far from the town where I grew up, with people of different cultures and races.

Fishing around for a photograph of Dumbiedykes in my own archives, I found one with a Japanese friend in the foreground. I think that says a great deal about the connections of people to places now. When I go back to Edinburgh now, I'm mostly showing it to Japanese people. I've internalized their expectations and tastes. (Not that I always get those right: in my Edinburgh podcast you can hear how terrified Hisae was on the Salisbury Crags path that overlooks Dumbiedykes.)



Places now live by the perceptions of people from the other side of the world as much as by the perceptions of their own residents, which is why, when I go back to Edinburgh now, I get -- rather than the city I once knew -- "the Edinburgh Experience", a highly self-conscious, cleverly mediated spectral city-shaped self-projection. Hogmanay, the Scottish New Year celebration, for instance, has changed in my lifetime from a bunch of drunk locals kissing strangers on the High Street to a micro-managed spectacle involving live music projected onto giant screens, co-ordinated with computer-controlled firework displays over a city centre cordoned off and tightly controlled by the police. A spectacle designed for, and capable of drawing, people from all over the world. People like me, in other words, net-and-jet people who arrive via airports and whose nostalgia for place is kindled by, and mediated through, websites. People who have an "estimated time of arrival" (ETA) and a "point of presence" (POP) rather than any sort of roots in blood and soil, bricks and mortar.

I don't say we ETA-POP net-and-jet people are bad; this is just the way things are, and the way we are now. Ultimately I wouldn't want a life with roots in Dumbiedykes in exchange for the opportunities I've had to experience -- and feel at home in -- Japan and all the other countries I visit. But it's a pretty big change to have happened in just one lifetime. We didn't just change places, we changed place.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 11:29 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
The most obvious difference between the "net-and-jet" people like yourself and the Dumbiedykes-type communities is family.

People who build real roots in real earth are the ones producing the next generations and the *fabric* of society. I would imagine it would be impossible to do that as an international traveller.

Is it and does that bother you?

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 11:42 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I know plenty of people with kids who maintain an international, peripatetic lifestyle. As I understand it, that describes Momus's own upbringing as well.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 11:52 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
There are lots of different ways to do that. You can take jobs abroad (my dad took posts with the British Council and various foreign universities) which last for a couple of years at a time. You can do what I do, and live abroad full-time, with one-, two- or three-month, project-related trips to other places. Or you can do what my sister does. She's based in Edinburgh, and is bringing up kids there. But she jets off a lot for short holidays with her partner, whose job is to take production stills on movie shoots all over the world. So she's both more rooted and more mobile than I am. It's not very eco-friendly, of course.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 09:34 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
All human activity is non eco-friendly so let us shed this assumed guilt regarding the conservative, skepticism-free, unquestioned orthodoxy of environmentalism.
Thomas Scott.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 12:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Actually, I think I'm trying to say something similar today to what I said about Birmingham in Panspermingham (http://imomus.livejournal.com/241252.html).

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 03:15 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dubow-org.livejournal.com
Just listened to your Edinburgh audio blog for the first time, and really enjoyed it. It's so full of memories from everyone who spoke, and even for me, as I try to remember what each of these places were like from when I last visited. Now the blog itself is a memory and neatly logs the budding romance between you and Hisae.

What would Alvin Toffler say?

Date: 2006-12-11 04:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] zzberlin.livejournal.com
Momus, your writing here brings to mind the articles Elizabeth Kolbert did for the New Yorker a couple years back on global warming. She emphasized how horrid it was that some northern fishing communities were being forced to move from their homes and lifestyles that they had held for hundreds of years. She felt this was disastrous. My thought was, "what's so bad about change?" Why should anyone be assured that they can stay where they are in "this day and age." So what if the fishermen folk have to change the way they live. No promises anymore. It just doesn't bother me that people might have to move somewhere else.

I don't support global warming!! But I also don't think we should wring our hands over making sure a culture never has to change its precious self.

Re: What would Alvin Toffler say?

Date: 2006-12-11 05:48 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVHITCeCZnM Archer

Re: What would Alvin Toffler say?

Date: 2006-12-11 08:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lord-whimsy.livejournal.com
All fine and well if you belong to a privileged stratum of society that is able to flit from one opportunity to another. Ain't so with most people.

Choosing change and having it forced upon you are two very different things. What if a major earthquake decimated every cultural cosmopolitan center on earth, forcing you to adopt a lifestyle yopu would not have chosen for yourself, say, eking a living clamdigging in a small bay town. The "what's so bad about change" clause cuts both ways, you see.

Re: What would Alvin Toffler say?

Date: 2006-12-12 02:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] zzberlin.livejournal.com
<< Choosing change and having it forced upon you are two very different things. >>

My feeling is that change is good on its face. People who resist it deserve to have it forced upon them periodically.

<< What if a major earthquake decimated every cultural cosmopolitan center on earth, forcing you to adopt a lifestyle yopu would not have chosen for yourself, say, eking a living clamdigging in a small bay town. >>

I think that would be very exciting. But while clamdigging I'd probably be trying to figure out how to get back to the city, if there was one left.

As for flitting about because one has the resources to flit about, as compared to northern fishermen being forced to move because of climate change, clearly we would have to help them move, much as we help retrain workers whose tasks are made obsolescent by technology.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 07:09 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
To quote my grandfather who grew up in a place much like Dumbiedykes, "People who are nostalgic for old slums probably never had to live there". There's nothing quaint about a run down rat hole.

slums

Date: 2006-12-11 07:40 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
It doesn't have to be run down though. One big difference between a slum and a non-slum is maintenance. Nostalgia for a slum happens if you are moved into a place that turns out to be worse.
I live in what might be a slum - on a council estate of 4 story blocks in Lambeth - but really it's fine. Probably not good if you have kids, though.

Re: slums

Date: 2006-12-11 07:42 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Maybe that should be "Storey". There are many more than four stories in our block.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 08:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Yes, I think in terms of the building fabric, those 19th century buildings are just a lot more durable than the 1960s structures put up to replace them. With a little renovation of the existing housing stock, Dumbiedykes could have become a very desireable area. Of course, that wasn't the 1960s way. There was a certain tabula rasa approach which, in some lights, could be seen as admirable (in a Tokyo sort of way).

There's an argument for saying the shitty 1960s housing has kept the area fairly working-class, demographically, and that inner city areas close to desireable amenities (the Dynamic Earth centre, the Scottish Parliament, Arthur's Seat) never have enough working class people in them. So, er, hurrah!

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 09:16 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
In fairness to him I don't think Nick is trying to portray poverty in that way, he just chooses Dumbiedykes as a starting point for an interesting peramble.
What he was indicating was the lack of foresight of city planners who saw fit to demolish an area comprising buildings of potential charm and durability, replacing them instead with ugly mass produced housing units.
In other words doing what successive governments in the U.K. and in Ireland- where I live- have done for decades...demolishing the tenements of poverty, the superficial manifestations of poverty but ignoring the root causes of this poverty.
Thomas Scott.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-11 09:21 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Sorry,above is a response to the anonymous contributor who relates his grandfather's (understandable) response to the romancing of slum living.

slums

Date: 2006-12-11 09:25 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Yes! High-rise flats are generally thought to be awful, but the new(ish) flats in the Barbican are high-rise and seems to be wonderful. High prestige, as well as high-rise. And well-built, I assume - none of that getting council officials pissed before signing the planning agreements, so they don't see the cheapness of the materials, etc.
Our flats (I mean the 4 storey blocks in Lambeth) were built in the 30s and are wonderfully designed - very small, but the space well used, and the basic structure is bloody good - some small faults that are easily repaired, but nothing big.

an important factor

Date: 2006-12-11 11:38 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
in the changing urban fabric was the ascent of the automobile. the increased mobility affected both the imaginations and expectations of the urban planners. and as indicated in the original post, the ongoing increase in mobility continues to impact the cities of imagination. of course, once the oil runs out and air travel is no longer a possibility for any but the super rich, the great urban contraction could begin.

(no subject)

Date: 2006-12-12 12:27 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] saruryujin.livejournal.com
"Hogmanay, the Scottish New Year celebration, for instance, has changed in my lifetime from a bunch of drunk locals kissing strangers on the High Street to a micro-managed spectacle involving live music projected onto giant screens, co-ordinated with computer-controlled firework displays over a city centre cordoned off and tightly controlled by the police. A spectacle designed for, and capable of drawing, people from all over the world."

!!!

This type of high-tech controlled and micro-managed spectacle is nowadays happening for/and in every cities' celebrations around the world. Why so would people from all over the world will move just to witness what is already 'domesticating' their home-town?
This is the result of the soon obsolete modernist statist allied and nihilistic dictate that the newer (say Hogmanay Alpha version 10.3.2) is the best eva'…
Don't you see the craaaaaap?
Go down your Berlin street now and kiss any strangers you will encounter (and -not only- your so globalized Nippons freund)

Place

Date: 2006-12-13 07:04 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
i was talking about this with some friends last night. People (educated and intelligent and diasporic) feel nostalgia for these old communities. There's an element of 'it was better then', that community is lost through the present mediated diasporic reality. Or that community is somehow harder to build without physical contact/proximity. I dont buy this. Surely even in a tenement estate like pre 1960's Dumbiedykes, people were selctive about the communities they built for themselves, and with the people they incorporated into their personal communities... And to draw paralells; is a nod of the head in a pub leading to a drink or a chat the next time, equivalent to a myspace message or blog comment that strikes a chord with a reader/recipient? Wierdly, i wrote a story this summer partly set in Dumbiedykes, which is why it was interesting to come across this. I'm not scottish btw, i live in Madrid.

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