Mr Pantouffle's self-fab skyhut
Feb. 5th, 2010 10:43 am
I escaped yesterday from winter-glitched Berlin (grit, dark, dirt, slush and slither) into the warm, clean capsule of sunlight-and-elsewhere which is the Walther Koenig bookstore. Soon I found myself flipping through an interesting architect's-coffee-table book by Rufina Wu and Stefan Canham, Portraits from Above: Hong Kong's Informal Rooftop Communities.Up on the roofs of Hong Kong buildings you often find them: corrugated shacks, little huts, self-built structures which replicate, up in the air, rural Chinese villages. "Informal" means, of course, that they don't meet any building standards and don't have any legal status, so living in one of these skyhuts is a precarious business in every sense; a government inspector will sooner or later mark your dwelling with a fluorescent ink stain which means that you have a minimal window of a day or two to vacate before they pull the place down and chuck its constituent parts onto a skip thirty stories below.

Wu (the Chinese-Canadian who did the meticulous cut-away drawings) and Canham (German, photographs) asked themselves the same questions I did: Who lives here? How do they live? Do they have wifi? Do they have running water and electricity? What's it like in there? Luckily, the pair were invited in quite readily, and allowed to document the living spaces.

Did I tell you I once lived for a year in a hen hutch? Well, it wasn't really a hen hutch, more a garden shed behind a house in Torry, Aberdeen. It was my last year at university, and I actually really enjoyed living there. I put a picture of Alexander Pope on the wall, taught myself Brel songs, warmed myself with a two-bar heater, and, when I had to use the loo or the bath, let myself into the adjacent house belonging to my landlady, Mrs Ross. So that's what I imagine living on a Hong Kong roof to be like.

Humble, fleeting, homemade, ramshackle and cheap, the self-fab skyhut is admirable in all sorts of ways. Okay, so the toilet appears to be in the kitchen in some of these photos, and they wouldn't keep the cold out if Hong Kong ever did get cold (today it's 20c, perfect!). But from the point of view of density, recycling, efficiency and sustainability these structures -- built in a spirit of dung-beetle bricolage -- have a lot to teach us. Up on the roof it's cooler and quieter, you're out of people's way, you have good views out over the city, you can befriend the birds and watch the sun set. You haven't used up any extra land, and you haven't spent a ridiculous amount of money on construction. You're up on the roof, hurting no-one, minding your own business, listening to the aircon.
The nice thing about books like Portraits from Above is that they provide a detailed decor into which you can insert characters of your own. Yesterday, after playing Grand Theft Auto for a while at the Transmediale hub, I invented a character called Mr Pantouffle. He's a semi-retired clown with a heart of gold, always being cheated by the people he meets down on the ground. Only up in his skyhut, with his beloved avifauna around him, is Pantouffle free. He hums, he feeds the birds, he works on his clown act, he scatters fresh rice into his pink plug-in cooker and flips the switch.

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Date: 2010-02-05 10:06 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 10:06 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 10:20 am (UTC)I don't want the apartment cleaned or renovated or restored to "neutral" and "acceptable" conditions. I don't want the rent hiked. I don't even want the hole in the window fixed. I pick up the old, poor Asian's life pretty much where s/he left off: feeding the cat, tending to the garden patch, working on the tatami frame, visiting the sento.
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Date: 2010-02-05 10:17 am (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2010-02-05 10:39 am (UTC)Then we had sex. I was insanely turned on by graying hair.
Then there was a performance or something where Momus played electronic drums. But the manager thought he was too quirky. At some point Momus improvised a percussion apparatus out of two plastic buckets and aluminum wire, and the manager kicked him out. Then he told *me* to play the drums. I told him I couldn’t play jack shit. He pointed out, « This is the bass and this is the snare. Just alternate between them, it’s what the audience wants. » I tried it for a while but it was too boring, so I gave up.
Next scene, we were in a café and the store was selling a Moka coffee pot for just R$12. I asked them about it and they said it was defective, but I could tell they just didn’t know how to use it. I was in terrible moral distress arguing with myself about whether it would be unethical to say nothing and just get it, then Momus said, « the design of the thing is so awesome, it’s not a sin to cheat for this » and I though « you _understand!_ » and bought it.
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Date: 2010-02-05 10:57 am (UTC)(no subject)
From: (Anonymous) - Date: 2010-02-05 09:23 pm (UTC) - Expand(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 11:02 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 12:33 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 12:49 pm (UTC)"There is no elevator. We walk up the eight flights of stairs, hesitating on the last one, looking at each other, out of breath: we have no right to be here.
"The roof is a maze of corridors, narrow passageways between huts built of sheet metal, wood, brick and plastics. There are steps and ladders leading up to a second level of huts. We get lost. Our leaflets in hand, Rufina knocks on a door. There is an exchange in Cantonese. Stefan stands in the background, the foreigner, smiling, not understanding a word. They hear us out, smile back and invite us into their homes.
"Later, we look down at the building from a higher one across the street. The roof is huge, like a village. There must be thirty or forty households on it. From the outside there is no way of knowing what is inside. Whether they have Internet or not. Whether they have a toilet. And there is no way of knowing their stories…"
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Date: 2010-02-05 01:04 pm (UTC)He said to us although people can be incredibly innovative when in situations like this, ultimately they all want to have big houses and cars. Why wouldn't they? Ultimately it is only the privileged who will fetishise poverty, or try to emulate it on some level.
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Date: 2010-02-05 01:16 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2010-02-05 01:54 pm (UTC)Love.
Hmm
Date: 2010-02-05 02:59 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 04:26 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2010-02-05 05:41 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2010-02-05 06:10 pm (UTC)These videos (http://www.youtube.com/user/MichaelRogge#g/c/A08F26F648CE6143) (japan too) (http://www.youtube.com/user/MichaelRogge#g/c/6EB4E20BE58B5305) are the only things I have found that come close to showing what HK was like in the '70s.
Groucho Marxism?
Date: 2010-02-05 07:01 pm (UTC)Instead of couching these economic horrors in terms of ingenuity and efficiency (one can see the bourgeois capitalist now, "Hey! Good for these people, they're making do quite well!!") why not ask --how/why-- things have come to this, and what, if anything, we as conscientious, worldly people could do about it. I mean a little more than figuring out a way to glob onto and live off of a horrific, late-capitalist society such as you've documented...
Re: Groucho Marxism?
Date: 2010-02-06 01:27 am (UTC)Re: Groucho Marxism?
From: (Anonymous) - Date: 2010-02-06 09:14 pm (UTC) - ExpandPersonality is destiny
Date: 2010-02-05 08:41 pm (UTC)I have often thought of finding a word that encapsulates the spiritual feeling that comes with the decor and environment of a Chinese restaurant in America: grease, fluorescence, life, pinkness, stained but cute clothes, red-cheeked girls behind the counter. Very Chinese, and very sexy and poor. How they have no idea what I think of them.
Who's happier? Americans who are stuffed with anti-depressives and anti-anxiety medicine living in isolated mansions playing video games and using porn? Mother Theresa thought the U.S. was spiritually desolate, and didn't feel good coming here. Compare that to India, where there is visible death and poverty, yet a certain serenity in the face of things anyway. Having said that, I am scared of China sometimes, and their ruthless practicality and willfulness to 'become somebody' in the face of just getting their act together on the world stage.
I just meant to write about Italo Calvino's 'The Baron in the Trees', about a viscount who retires to the trees to look down at society. Italo Calvino is nice, and especially apt at giving a sense of solidarity and humor in this current world where the rug is being pulled out from under our feet, with the sense that nobody really knows how to escape the conditioning that is turning everyone into a perpetual man-child.
Re: Personality is destiny
Date: 2010-02-06 09:18 pm (UTC)Mother Theresa was full of shit. I advise you to read/watch Hitchen's book/doc The Missonary Position, which tells how this "saint" advanced the twisted policies of the Catholic Church, rubbed shoulders with tin horn dictators and ultimately took money from Michael Milken (1980s S&L scandal Milken) and then refused to give the money back when told it was dirty. All this and more from your precious Mother Theresa...
Re: Personality is destiny
From: (Anonymous) - Date: 2010-02-06 11:11 pm (UTC) - ExpandRe: Personality is destiny
From: (Anonymous) - Date: 2010-02-07 10:22 am (UTC) - ExpandRe: Personality is destiny
From:Personality is destiny
Date: 2010-02-05 08:43 pm (UTC)I have often thought of finding a word that encapsulates the spiritual feeling that comes with the decor and environment of a Chinese restaurant in America: grease, fluorescence, life, pinkness, stained but cute clothes, red-cheeked girls behind the counter. Very Chinese, and very sexy and poor. How they have no idea what I think of them.
Who's happier? Americans who are stuffed with anti-depressives and anti-anxiety medicine living in isolated mansions playing video games and using porn? Mother Theresa thought the U.S. was spiritually desolate, and didn't feel good coming here. Compare that to India, where there is visible death and poverty, yet a certain serenity in the face of things anyway. Having said that, I am scared of China sometimes, and their ruthless practicality and willfulness to 'become somebody' in the face of just getting their act together on the world stage.
I just meant to write about Italo Calvino's 'The Baron in the Trees', about a viscount who retires to the trees to look down at society. Italo Calvino is nice, and especially apt at giving a sense of solidarity and humor in this current world where the rug is being pulled out from under our feet, with the sense that nobody really knows how to escape the conditioning that is turning everyone into a perpetual man-child.
Re: Personality is destiny
Date: 2010-02-06 02:00 am (UTC)I do take offence at what you said. I think it is very demeaning to base your perception of the entire culture on the less-educated part of the people. I agree that many cultural output from Mainland China now has a "new rich" aesthetics(ie West worshipping, little understanding of the refined high culture of both the West and China). But there are modern Chinese culture that is not as vulgar. Taipei, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing all got their own distinctive culture, due to different dialects and political backgrounds. We are not as homogenous as you might think. It's essential to recognise the complexity within the Sinosphere.
I recommend you to read "My country my people" by Lin Yutan. It is a good introduction to reading the Chinese culture, beyond all the empty revolutionary fervour that many people like to mock China with.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lin_Yutang
Re: Personality is destiny
From:Re: Personality is destiny
From:(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-05 10:46 pm (UTC)One of these old buildings just collapsed on 29th, killing 4 people, because someone was making renovation and mistakenly taken down a supporting wall. Something of this scale has not happened before, it's really tragic...
http://www.rthk.org.hk/rthk/news/englishnews/news.htm?englishnews&20100129&56&644049
This German photographer called Michael Wolf also photographs old buildings in Hong Kong.
http://www.hk-magazine.com/feature/michael-wolf
http://www.photomichaelwolf.com/corner_houses/index.html
I like his corner house collection because he documented some post war buildings which are somewhat Corbusian with their ribbon windows, roof garden and occasional pilotis.
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Date: 2010-02-05 10:58 pm (UTC)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Summer_Snow_(film)
which talks about a widowed housewife taking care of her father-in-law who has worsening Alzheimer's disease. They live in a building similar to those in the book. It is one of my all time favourite Hong Kong films. The lead Josephine Siao was like the Anna Karenina of Hong Kong in the 60s.
http://hkmdb.com/db/images/people/2222/JosephineSiaoFongFong-4-t.jpg
(Part1-4 of the film with English subtitle)
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/FhMREGveFfQ/
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/K6ZiakT1noU/
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/xAzeE4t1GI0/
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/ZFGlL17KWqE/
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Date: 2010-02-05 11:47 pm (UTC)When you leave it'll be the senseless triumph of capitalist sensualism over free love, again.
(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-06 12:17 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-06 03:56 am (UTC)once he photographed an apartment room with no bath in daikanyama.
the person who lives there built himself a bath, right in front of his bed.
it's interesting that a daikanyama room have same atmosphere with these "informal" hong kong rooms (and also slum houses' rooms in jakarta).
i don't know if they live like that because they choose to, or because there are no options. but they definitely able to create similar atmosphere...an atmosphere which is heartwarming, cozy and modest.
this is one of my favorite words from him (straight typing from the "universe for rent" book):
"again, this is not to say that wearing million yen suits or driving ten million yen cars or living in billion yen homes is necessarily bad. but it also has nothing to do with "achieving" with being "ahead" or "behind" in the game. once you know it's just a matter of taste, life is so much easier."
it is!!!
-niken-
(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-06 08:38 am (UTC)Yes, I love Kyoichi Tsuzuki's investigations into living spaces and domestic habits, he has a generosity and curiosity which is very inspiring.
(no subject)
Date: 2010-02-07 02:07 am (UTC)でも、ハワイ島のVera Wangのドレスも念のため、
見ておくほうがいい?
"it's cooler and quieter"
Date: 2010-02-12 06:48 am (UTC)But I suppose I'm talking to myself now anyway - you've long since left these shores...
Re: "it's cooler and quieter"
Date: 2010-02-12 09:07 am (UTC)