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Bamboo. The new United Bamboo store, designed by Vito Acconci, in Daikanyama. Nice to see they're selling T shirts by my friend Hiroshi Sunairi. The headphones hanging at the end of the racks don't seem to work. CDs by Black Dice and others on the United Bamboo record label. A group photo of 'friends of United Bamboo'. It's very 'us', the atmosphere in here. And I find that almost disturbing, despite being almost 'us' (and certainly a friend of United Bamboo).

Clouds. At Ebisu Yoyo doesn't seem to work anymore at Poetry of Sex. They have Florence's T shirts, though. It's very 'us'. There's a photo of me and Shizu in the Ryan McGinley book on the table. Hello Shizu, it's a shock to see your face again! We used to be 'us'.

Bronze. Up at Ebisu Gardens Place men in yellow crash hats are rolling a vast fat bronze lady statue to a truck. Their seriousness is as vast as the lady's flanks, buttocks and boobs. It's an irresistibly funny combination.



Scout. I'm being a magazine scout, cos I'm supposed to be showing the publisher of Vice around Tokyo in a couple of days and I want to sound like I know what I'm talking about. 3www is a new Tokyo listings magazine, I discover. Also, french magazine Technikart now has a Japanese edition. And Purple has an English edition.

Garden. There's a show of garden art at the Watarium. You lie on some massage beds and gaze up at exotic artificial vegetation hanging from the ceiling. It's exciting, because all the other visitors are 'immaculates' -- the sort of girls who seem, professionally, to exist just to drift from one art gallery to the next, to add beauty and seriousness to the exhibits.

Buddha. With some time to kill before an appointment, and feeling jet-laggy, I go to another garden, the Nezu Museum with its hidden, walled green valley up past Prada and Comme. It seems to be closed, but nobody stops me going in. It's lovely here, a secret spot of dense trees, carp ponds, fragrant paths. The city seems far away and tranquility rules. Semis whirr at 100 decibels, spiders lurk, crows caw, caustic. I snooze on the teahouse stoop. When I wake I look up at the clouds and ask myself if, intuitively, I really feel there's a Christian god behind them. Of course I don't. And because the sky over Japan is godless, every little thing is able to have god in it -- that semi crawling the iron hoop in front of me, for instance, which has slept underground for seventeen years, and will sing and mate now for five weeks and die. Or the armoured slater in the photo at...

Office. Drinking beer at my favourite bar, which hangs over the Aoyama Dori. I'm with a photographer and we're looking at Rinko Kawauchi photos. One is of an Afghan kid's boot, with a bug crawling up it, tolerated. It seems very Buddhist, very Japanese, that photo, as a take on war. The Office waitress is stunning, tall and beautiful. There are only two other customers. She flirts with me, telling me how much she likes my eyepatch and straw hat. It's odd to be in this country where I find almost everyone so attractive. I'm so used to finding fault with people, but here I'm just agog with admiration. I want to marry everyone.

Music. At five o'clock each district of Tokyo broadcasts a piece of music from schools and government buildings to tell people it's time to go home. This music is often hauntingly beautiful and tender. Here's the Five O'Clock Music I heard today in the Nezu Museum gardens.

Five O'Clock Music (WAV file)

Radiance. The radiance of faces on a Friday night in Shibuya. Ghosts, shades of the Floating World, and this sense of safeness and happiness and togetherness that floods Japan. Sometimes when I'm here I really feel I've been spirited away, and what I'm seeing is some kind of beyondworld. Enchantment, over and over. I'd rather be here with my dear dead, my ghosts, if that's what they are, than anywhere.

Ghosts. Coming home through the dark, intricate, humid, gentle streets of Okusawa (right at the 24 hour supermarket with its excellent, mysterious food and hovering fluorescence, left past the temple with its spooky stone guardian) I really believe in ghosts. All my Japanese friends believe in them too, without question. The ghosts are friendly here.

On The Subject of Ghosts

Date: 2004-07-16 11:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] llllollll.livejournal.com
Hey Nick!
Thanks for that very, very lovely missive, regarding the 2004 Edition of BB Gun Magazine (http://www.bbgun.org)!
You are the cat's pajamas and then some!
Mr. Alway was right, regarding your shining brilliance!
Ta for now!
Ohh you Brits........!!

Re: On The Subject of Ghosts

Date: 2004-07-16 01:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lord-whimsy.livejournal.com
Madame X,

I have some new Ian performance photos for your use. I shall send them soon.

W

Re: On The Subject of Ghosts

Date: 2004-07-17 10:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] llllollll.livejournal.com
How exciting!
Thanks LW!

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 11:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bifteck.livejournal.com
Gorgeous.

Just.. glorious.

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 11:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] neurasthenic.livejournal.com
Wow, that music is incredible...touching and unexpected. Lucky for me that I couldn't possibly take it for granted as a part of the daily grind. Thanks for sharing, I was really curious after reading your entry about the music yesterday...

...some of my japanese nouns...

Date: 2004-07-16 12:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] biseinen.livejournal.com
Oh, okay, you fixed it. (I was wondering where the chocolate bar pic fit on all of this.) =^)
Wow, that store looks like a place I'd like to die in. By looking at it I can't help looking for iMacs in it.
Amongst the names Japan brings to memory there's definitelly and quite resonantly:
MOMUS (...since that's where I discovered you by listening to my first ever Momus song: "Bishonen", in a very small and descriminating second-hand record store at the back-streets of Naha, Okinawa. Memorable. Ah, that's also where I got my main mail acct. handle from and its mature version: 'biseinen' for my Livejournal's handle as well... heh heh)

Anyhow, other nouns poping to mind:
FRESHNESS;
SERENITY;
SAFETY;
FUTURE;
HOME (only ideally);
PACHINGO/ADDICTION (I hate gambling, but there so many of them I can't help it);
ARCADES; etc.
Nick, I must be you're number one fan (I challenge anyone!) and I want to reiterate my gratitude for contributing so much to me and sharing your interesting life with all of us. That's so special. I don't see many other artists being this close and consistent to their fans. I know you do it primarily because you love doing it, but it's hard work and I thank you. You are as inspirational to me as Bowie was to you.
Keep those Japanese (and otherwise) impressions postings flowing baby. I love them!
Are you ever coming back to New York after Nov. if Bush doesn't get re-elected? It's been a while.
BTW, I added you as a 'friend'. All the best on your world tour.
eD B^)

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 01:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lord-whimsy.livejournal.com
Immaculates in flowery throes and insects awakening in the gardens.
Eno-esque dinner bells. Sam Botero fertility goddesses rolling through public squares.
Sounds like an aesthete's paradise. Utterly charmed.
Thank you for these vicarious pleasures, sir.

W

Botero

Date: 2004-07-16 01:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ushi69.livejournal.com
Ohhh they have removed the "Botero" Sculptures. They were there already in April 2004 (http://www.la-grange.net/2004/04/08.html). I like the hand of one of the worker on her butt. How gentle... I can hear him "Don't worry, you will go in a comfortable place".

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 02:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] carbon-kink.livejournal.com
I took a picture standing in front of that exact statue.

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 03:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starofpersia.livejournal.com
This makes me a little more excited about going out to tokyo for a five day work conference :P

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 05:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sarmoung.livejournal.com
I also believe in ghosts when in Tokyo. I've never lived in a city more filled with them. As for flirty waitresses, that's what the table charge is for, baka! Nevertheless, it's hard to ever readjust to Limey service standards once you've experienced Japan. Say hello to the cicadas while you're there for me.

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-16 06:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xryptic.livejournal.com
I noticed the Momus live in Tokyo on Sept. 11th on your website, but is there any chance you'll be performing in the area sometime before then? I only ask because my brother is in Japan at the moment, in Yokosuka, and I have a feeling he'd enjoy your music. Unfortunately I don't know if he'll still be there in September...

I really should show him your blog, it might do him good. :)

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-17 04:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
No shows planned before September, no. I can't really steal thunder from the main show I'm here to play, which is the Sept. 11th one. It would be unfair to the promoter.

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-17 04:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xryptic.livejournal.com
Good point.
I'll let him know anyway and hopefully he'll still be there.

Immaculate specters

Date: 2004-07-16 07:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xyzedd.livejournal.com
I'm watching "Kwaidan" yet again and must agree that Japan has the most beautiful ghosts in the world (and spookiest). "Beyondworld" is such a nice way of putting it--and we too are always searching for that radiant enchantment within all things but is usually just out of reach, though we are perhaps closest to it on a quiet summer's evening when ghosts and cicadas are just rousing...

the french invasion

Date: 2004-07-17 12:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hellogorgeous.livejournal.com
technikart in japan? now they got range!

Comfort

Date: 2004-07-17 03:28 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
The Christian definition of ghosts has killed off any belief I have in such an idea. Is this the Japanese version of the Uncanny that you are talking about ? This definition of 'ghosts' sounds much more compelling. I like your description of a fundamental 'spirit' that inhabits all things. Also the whole notion of benign ancestors seems a very comforting thought, but then Japan sounds a very comforting place.

I find your musings regarding this area very enlightening, especially given your professed atheism. One experiences a vicarious pleasure reading your impressions. I so want to visit the country. Also I know it is hard work posting all of this. Quite simply, thanks for sharing ..

Richard G

from saturday night in minneapolis

Date: 2004-07-17 05:27 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
thank you for the beautiful post

(no subject)

Date: 2004-07-17 09:45 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragonmonkey.livejournal.com
Out here in rice fields of Chiba, they play the Beatles 'Yesterday' at five every day in those cooing monophonic tones. You can hear the echos fade from speaker to speaker, nestled somewhere every few blocks.

goodness

Date: 2004-07-19 09:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anaxferus.livejournal.com
The new United Bamboo store is mighty sexy.