Nordic roots
Apr. 17th, 2008 01:33 pm
One of the unexpected side-effects of my first trips to Japan in 1992 and 1993 was that I developed a fascination with Scandinavia. Just flying over the region's ragged coastlines, scattered islands, myriad lakes, gazing down from a 747, I felt some kind of pull, some sort of call. Luckily, at the same time real Scandinavians were calling too, with expenses-paid invitations to visit. I made a concert tour of Sweden and Finland in 1994, and a trip to Helsinki to make the "Man of Letters" video in 1993. After shooting videos for some of my songs with director Hannu Puttonen, I took a train up through Finland to the Arctic Circle, rented a Volvo, then drove around in Finnmark, that weird topmost part of Scandinavia where Finland, Sweden and Norway all join up.Talking into my video camera (some of the footage turned up in "Man of Letters"), I remember saying that the region felt like an older, richer version of my native Scotland -- a Scotland with all its features exaggerated. Instead of bare low hills, Finnmark had tundra. Instead of sheep, it had deer. Instead of grey squirrels, red. Instead of low squinty sun in winter and halfhearted overhead sun in summer, Finnmark had total blackness and the midnight sun. It was an Ur-Scotland, a Scotland on strange drugs, a Scotland with millienia-long deja vu. I remember driving the Volvo back to the rental shop through the night, racing to make my flight back to Helsinki. At 2am and 3am the sun still shone brightly. I felt completely disoriented -- yet oddly at home.

I always suspected that I had Scandinavian ancestry, but my mother -- an avid ancestor researcher -- has now confirmed it. She's traced our family tree (through her father's line) back to 1660, when people with Norse-style patronymic surnames lived on Shetland, an island almost as close to Norway and Iceland as it is to Scotland. The tree goes like this: Jarem Robertson (from Grobsness, Shetland) begat Hercules Jaremson (born 1690). His son John Herculesson (you see how the surname changes according to the father's first name?) sired William Johnsson, who married Margaret Jarmsdochter and produced Hercules Johnson in Muckle Roe. We're now at about 1800. The Icelandic-sounding names break down at this point, replaced by more Scottish-sounding ones. Laurence Johnson marries Catherine Sinclair. Their daughter Jane marries Alexander Mackintosh, and their daughter Margaret Munro Mackintosh marries William Robert Hood, who lives into the 20th century. His son is my grandfather, who marries my granny Janetta MacKechnie (the MacKechnies come from Mull, an island my mum has written a history of).
Now, I normally glaze over when the subject of genealogy comes up -- and if one's own genealogy is dull, other people's doesn't stand much of a chance. But I have a great interest in northernness (as this rather odd entry from earlier this year shows), and of course this all makes for great research / daydreaming opportunities for my Book of Scotlands.
In the second week of June I'll take the overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Shetland in the company of my mother. We'll spend a few days there, the two of us (the tenth and eleventh generations on from Jarem Robertson) and visit Orkney too.Perhaps it'll be a bit like W.H. Auden's trip to Iceland in 1936, with Louis MacNeice. Auden believed himself to be of Icelandic descent, and thought of Iceland as "holy ground". But, as the New Statesman tells us, Auden was quickly irritated by the reality of the Iceland he discovered: "In his letters home, Auden mocked the mediocrity and shabbiness of the architecture, the gloom of the locals, and the awful food - the bitter soups, the dried fish, the overcooked mutton and, a speciality, the rotten shark pickled in sour milk... "Reykjavik," he wrote, "is the worst possible sort of provincial town as far as amusing oneself is concerned, and there was nothing to do but soak in the only hotel with a licence."
Auden went back in 1964 and found the place much more to his liking. Iceland was now an independent republic. It was more prosperous, but "had not yet become vulgar". Anyway, I'm looking forward to some generational time travel this summer; in preparation I've been watching Michael Powell's film "Return to the Edge of the World", documenting his 1978 trip to the Shetland island of Foula.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 11:55 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 12:50 pm (UTC)the last will be first
Date: 2008-04-17 12:59 pm (UTC)I have a weird habit of reading things backwards. Not in a dyslexic sense, but often I will start at the last page of a magazine and flip through the articles in reverse order, even reading the paragraphs from last to first. I don't know why I do this, maybe reading straight through is too easy?
So last week I decided to do this with Click Opera, and to keep a folder bookmarking my favorite entries. "In BÃ¥tsfjord on the Barents Sea" is at the top of my list. I emailed it to a writer friend last night with "why do I love this" as the email title. I must have read that piece 100 times since you posted it. Can't explain my fascination with it, it is a part of the world I have never been to, but it just works on so many levels for me.
More synchronicities. My dad developed a fascination with the Shaint Islands several years ago which I believe are just north of the Shetlands. We had a trip planned, but canceled at the last minute due to health problems. (he has travelled to the South Shetlands though, just above Antarctica).
And not to get too personal, but my Mom is very sick, and we know she does not have long, months at most, and I want to take one last trip with her. (gotta stop now)
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:03 pm (UTC)Re: the last will be first
Date: 2008-04-17 01:09 pm (UTC)As for trips with parents, I'd say go for it, if she's well enough. You won't regret it the way you'll regret missing out on it.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:15 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:20 pm (UTC)He owns a 23,000 acre estate in the Highlands. On his patch he plans to restore both the ancient Highland landscape and the wildlife that once lived on it -- various species of trees, bears, wolves, boars...
This all sounds romantic and I was 100% for it until I realised that it would all be locked away within an electric fence that would be built around the estate, and that you'd need to pay to get in, turning it into a Safari park of sorts.
If it was a success (financially) the idea would spread all over Scotland. It would create many jobs and reintroduce beautiful plants and animals back to Scotland, but you'd lose the right to roam the highlands freely... you'd have to pay to enjoy it.
I'd completely support this project if it kept the highlands free to roam, but unfortunately, I doubt that'll happen.
A few screen grabs from 'Moose in the Glen':
The Scottish Highlands as they are:
The Scottish Highlands as they once were (these are clips of Northern Europe):
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:21 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:22 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:28 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:44 pm (UTC)A modern Scot probably sees vast beauty when he looks at the highlands today, but an ancient Scot would probably be brought to tears at how baron the highlands have become. How's that for Relativism?
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:49 pm (UTC)Hillary= White person with a golden spoon in her mouth from the start.
Obama= Black person who grew up on a "stone floor" and got where he is now through hard work.
More politicians should have had some avarage job before they start with politics!
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:53 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 01:58 pm (UTC)But I DO NOT WANT TO DISCUSS THIS HERE when 80% of the rest of the internet is having mega-tedious retreads of the same topic. Have some dignity, man!
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:00 pm (UTC)I have still to investigate fully Obama's accusations of Hillary's connections with interest groups and his supposed lack thereof. There's no way he will survive in power if that is the case. Look at JFK. But if he is as brave and courageous man as he purports to be....
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:05 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:05 pm (UTC)I'm happy not to discuss the American elections. Anyone would think the United Kingdom was the 51st state the way they go on about it over here.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:17 pm (UTC)I don't believe being poor makes you a better person. I believe realisations and reflection on the nature of existence play a very important role in making people who they are.
Confucius once said "By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest."
It would be like instantly writing off Momus because he's from a middle/upper-middle class family who sent him to public school and are probably going leave him a healthy inheritance. Sure, those experiences will contribute to his view of the world but they haven't necessarily made him a worse person.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:20 pm (UTC)You can check out some reminiscences I have posted about Shetland if you like.
http://niddrie-edge.livejournal.com/tag/shetland
I lived at the end of the road in Hillswick, Eshaness. There's a pub there called Da Booth that is very old.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:23 pm (UTC)A politician who have had a real job like the lower or middle classes will possibly come to sense better than a politician who have had a job as a CEO.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:32 pm (UTC)What you're basically saying is that people can't have truly legitimate views on the politics of the classes below their station because they've never lived it. I don't necessarily think this is true.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 02:40 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:04 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:10 pm (UTC)I can make an example: Those who built up the idea of Folkhemmet where politicians who have had several real jobs before becoming politicians. Those who have ruined Folkhemmet are politicians who more or less got stuck in politics early in their career, or had some sort of CEO job prior to their entry in politic.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:12 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:16 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:25 pm (UTC)I'm impressed by your Norse forebears. I've never bothered with that sort of thing myself, coming as I do from Irish navvie stock. If I have any posh ancestry, it'll be because one of my female ancestors was raped by a plantation-era laird ;-)
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:25 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 03:27 pm (UTC)Preliving the yelp of pain and disbelief
Date: 2008-04-17 04:02 pm (UTC)I know it is something we all have to face, and that all things must pass but it is just so hard. I was talking to my sis last week and we both just said, I wish we didn't know.
She is a voice nerd like me, and always comments on your dulcet tones when I play her a momus song. "Oh what a lovely voice". "Chritmas on Earth" comes up a lot in holiday mixes and she always comments on it. (I was her "frank tiger" too)
A verse from the Dhammapada always pops into my head when I think about such things -- "All beings tremble before death."
KOI
Snow today, the first in seven years,
As major a blizzard as the mildness here can muster.
Big slow skydiving flakes, their floating filigrees
Aspiring to come back as a field of Queen Anne's lace.
Then it is over, and the terrain resumes its menace.
Coyotes patrol it, watchful for a small
Privileged dog to steal. Premonitions! Whole nights
Preliving the yelp of pain and disbelief
As we helplessly watch our Cosmo borne struggling off.
We keep him on a stout red leash, but still...
Behind these garden walls it's safe. Birds, olive tress,
A rectangular pool of koi. Twin to the urban
Gempool south of us. Last night again: a moon,
Big stars, white clouds--no, wait, clouds colorized
To the exact tint of the white patches on the koi. A white
Ever so faintly suffused with blood and gold.
And from the clouds, or far beyond them, at intervals
Our upturned faces receive a mild pinprick of dew.
Feel the world drop away it whispers. Seven years more
Breathes the melting snow. To which the koi can only
Reply carpe diem. Next morning to their skylight comes a human
Silhouette edged by radiance, and they cluster to be fed.
Hold a fistful of pellets underwater, your hand will be kissed
By the tenderest mouths. It's too much; our "Lindbergh puppy"
Is barking--he's losing his footing--he's fallen in!
james Merrill
(January 1995)
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 04:11 pm (UTC)high and low
Date: 2008-04-17 04:52 pm (UTC)"Last night again: a moon,
Big stars, white clouds--no, wait, clouds colorized
To the exact tint of the white patches on the koi. A white
Ever so faintly suffused with blood and gold."
:-)
Edge of the World
Date: 2008-04-17 04:54 pm (UTC)Theories where that Med nomads spread that style to Europe and then the Hebrides. After carbon dating they discovered it was the other way round.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 05:18 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 06:14 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 06:29 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 09:27 pm (UTC)Re: the last will be first
Date: 2008-04-17 10:38 pm (UTC)Michael Powell reprised the Scottish Isles setting in the 1945 Pressburger collaboration I Know Where I'm Going.
Not sure if the film would be your thing, I'm rather fond of the old Archers productions.... that mythical Englishness from the pen of a rather sentimental Hungarian space Jew..
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 10:58 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-17 11:30 pm (UTC)My boss's dad has a website for his family history (http://macsheep.tripod.com/Morgan/index.html), and has an odd style of writing. It just reeks of bitterness when he gets to his own family history of his siblings. That's about the only fascinating thing for me!
Fantastic Voyage
Date: 2008-04-18 02:01 am (UTC)- well worth a read (http://macsheep.tripod.com/Morgan/id8.html) thou! I like his epic style -- thanks a lot!
Re: Fantastic Voyage
Date: 2008-04-18 02:08 am (UTC)