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I have two shows -- Momus music concerts -- coming up at the end of January, beginning of February. There's a show in Utrecht, Holland on Saturday January 26th (Kikker Theatre, Kleine zaal, €8, 9pm, reservations) and a show in Lund, Sweden on February 1st (Indigo@Blekingska nationen, 10pm). That means I'll be missing both digital kulturfest the Transmediale and Berlin Fashion Week. But I have a consolation, at least for missing fashion week: on the way to Sweden I'll be spending time in Copenhagen -- one of the few European cities I've actually never been to -- and Copenhagen is home to one of the few fashion designers I like: Henrik Vibskov.



I'm not really much of a fashionista; I like the street fashion stuff people put together for themselves, especially in Japan. I'm distantly interested in nu-ugly nu-ravewear's toxic optimism, and I like the work of certain friends -- Hikaru Furuhashi's Neckarves (she gave me a Nickarf Neckarf when I was in New York), for example. But it's pretty rare for me to like a "designer". If I had to name some I like I'd probably mention Cosmic Wonder, Makin Jan Ma of Jan Family, Bless... and, recently, Henrik Vibskov. I actually covet his €320 Helsinki Blanket, a sort of acid-Aztec poncho hanging on the rail at Berlin's Best Shop.

Henrik Vibskov -- like Makin Jan Ma, and like my girlfriend -- is a graduate of St Martin's in London. He's 34 now, and rides an excellent grocer's bicycle (I almost bought one like that, but it was as expensive as the Helsinki Blanket!) around Copenhagen, where he has a workshop and shop. He's a handsome fellow and he makes handsome clothes. Some of the scarves in his Men's Spring / Summer 2008 collection Fantabulous Bicycle Music Factory look a bit like Hikaru's neckarves!

I'll need to play a few more concerts before I can afford €320 for a Helsinki Blanket. So I'll probably just buy a garish secondhand tramp blanket for €2, hang it up in the garden to get rid of the sour smell, then pretend it's a Henrik Vibskov. But I'd like to thank the handsome grocery bicyclist of Copenhagen for being an inspiration.
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(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 11:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cap-scaleman.livejournal.com
Oh what! Another concert in Sweden that I'll miss...

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 11:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
You're in Stockholm, right? For some reason all my Swedish invitations these days are coming from West Sweden. I'm a West Sweden boy!

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 11:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cap-scaleman.livejournal.com
I live in Stockholm County, 45 minutes from Stockholm with train, though in another municipality (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Municipalities_of_Sweden).

South of Sweden (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sk%C3%A5ne_County) to be more exact. Did you know that many swedes thinks we should give back Skåne to Denmark?

Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 11:52 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kineticfactory.livejournal.com
I was recently thinking that Ugly-Nu-Rave echoes 1990s Japanese aesthetics, though reinvents them in line with sharky anglocapitalist values. (Looking, for example, at New Young Pony Club's "Fantastic Playroom", there are echoes of an almost Shibuya-kei playfulness in it, albeit with the harder, cocainier, more competitive edge of Hoxton/Shoreditch, and perhaps a bit of Helmut Newton in the aesthetic mix.)

Does this make any sense?

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 11:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Well, if enough people believe that they could just drag that bit of Sweden over the bridge, couldn't they? But then where would the bridge go?

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 12:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cap-scaleman.livejournal.com
The bridge would get depressed because of unemployment and try to look for a job as a birdwatcher.

Unless it gets a mouth and speaks, making the whole operation of moving skåne to Denmark an ethical question.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 12:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kumakouji.livejournal.com
You're over-thinking this.

Nu-rave was just emo with neon-colours - there were also elements of "urban" hiphop/grime fashion, at least here in London. It was a superficial way of adding freshness to something old; change the pallete.


Image
Stereotypical emo

Image
Klaxons, not quite emo, not quite new rave, early days

Image
full blown Nu rave.

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 12:53 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
non sense...did you know that the guy on the bikes photo is covering up some of your wise words?

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 01:14 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Tokyo Bopper (http://www.tokyobopper.com) crosses Shibuya-kei with Nu-Rave.

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 01:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kumakouji.livejournal.com
I personally think the look on Tokyo Bopper is very different to Nu-rave.

Image
Image

This to me is nu-rave -- emo/indie foundations, neon/retro aesthetic.

Tokyo Bopper might be as random and haphazard as nu-rave in terms of composition but I dont see the nu-rave connection:

Image
Image
Image

I think youre getting too caught up in the background images the owner of the entry draws on the images. Take away the yellow blog and the colourful stars and squiggles and what have you and theres nothing particularly nu-rave about it.



Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 02:14 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I live in Copenhagen. It's great. I hope you have a fun time. I would recommend a walk round the Assistens Kirkegaard cemetery in Nørrebro, followed by some food in Stefanos on nearby Stefansgade.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 03:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mylifeismundane.livejournal.com
you should stop by my parents' place while you're there, they just moved and i still haven't been able to visit them! let us know how copenhagen is.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 03:38 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
the colors, shapes, patterns all look very 80s to me. it's reminding me of the hairy men in proudly hand-knitted kaffe fassett jumpers and guatemalan souvenir jackets one used to see around back then. or the shuffling pan-pipe band in the fast show...
that is indeed, however, a very nice bike.

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 03:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Definitive UK Nu-Rave style is CassettePlaya (http://www.cassetteplaya.com/home.htm). There's some crossover between Nu-Rave and Bape too. Tokyo Bopper is more an amalgam of Tyrol-Toddler-Shibuyakei-Nurave. But there are clear Nu-Rave references in the graphics, the psychedelic colour overload, and the smiley t-shirts:

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_3/0005.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_3/0008.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_6/0042.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_5/0020.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_4/0023.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_4/0046.jpg

http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_4/0007.jpg

But, as Kineticfactory notes, in the Japanese version it's softened, and meets many other influences and flavours. The collision between folk-Tyrolian and Nu-Rave is my favourite of these hybrids, and Vibskov has that going on too with his Aztec folk blanket thing.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 03:48 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Very 1980's the Vibskov clothes, I would not wear them He's a musician as well. Played drums in a Copenhagen indie band and toured with terrible lifestyle dance music dj Trentemøller last year.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 04:50 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Interesting to hear you like Vibskov. Why not pick up some of the pieces he produced for Uniqlo?

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 05:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kumakouji.livejournal.com
When it comes to the UK and the US, it's relatively easy to pinpoint major trends. We're much more conservative in the west so fashion changes and their roots are easier to see. The problem with trying to prove Japanese street fashion has being influenced by any trend is that Japanese street fashion by it's very nature is everything all at once -- someone somewhere is wearing anything and everything. Someones wearing neon, someones wearing baggy, someones wearing preppy. Theres very little method to its madness, which is part of its charm.

Facets of American hiphop have undoubtedly been influenced by Nu-rave (Kayne West and Lil Mama, the most prominent examples):

Image
Image

The retro overtones, the slim-fit, the neon colors. Bape only really made its way into nu-rave through the Grime/hop hop nurave crossover.

The example you give:

Image

You're mixing up bright colors with nu-rave. The examples you've given of tokyo bopper, I could find very similar styles in 90's issues of FRUiTS (which I have on my harddrive), and those happened long before nu rave. theyre not related. There is no "Japanese nu rave".

Nu-rave is more than just neon, otherwise "old rave" would be nu-rave too. Nu rave is indie/emo based (tight/slim fit, especially the trousers), retro influences (especially the retro sneakers/trainers), and neon colours.

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 05:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kumakouji.livejournal.com
Moreover, I forgot to mention: take away the neon background thats been drawn on and what are you left with? a grey tshirt and kilt, thats not nu rave.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 06:29 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] electricwitch.livejournal.com
You´re playing Holland? LOL what the hell is wrong with you, why didn´t you tell me before?

Now I only have a few weeks to gather all the fans I made you!

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 06:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] electricwitch.livejournal.com
RESERVED MY TICKET!

OH GOD WHAT WILL I WEAR???!

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 06:33 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] electricwitch.livejournal.com
BTW is this the theatre I trolled to make them book you or is it another one?

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 06:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] electricwitch.livejournal.com
No wait that was THE WORM or something, right? LOL sad to see my trolling made no difference.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 07:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] electricwitch.livejournal.com
MOMUS will you think I´m an idiot if I make you sign records?

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-04 07:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Not at all! But you'll have to tell me your real name.

Re: Thesis, antithesis, synthesis

Date: 2008-01-04 08:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
You do realise that that "grey t-shirt" (which has splashes of purple and pink on it too, by the way) has a smiley on it, don't you?

"A Timeline History of Rave - 1988
January - Shoom adopts the a Smiley face logo from the for its flyers. The smiley face becomes the symbol of acid house."

If it's a fluke, why is this Tokyo Bopper girl wearing a smiley too (http://tokyobopper.no-blog.jp/photos/style_sample_3/0005.jpg)? And look at how your Nu-ravers often replace their shoelaces with more brightly-coloured ones that clash with the colour of the shoes. Also a Tokyo Bopper tic. But sure, it's not just Nu-Rave. That's just one flake in the kaleidoscope.
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