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Bruce Osborn's Oyako - Portraying Japanese Generations series, currently being exhibited on Pingmag, is photography as sociology. Each picture portrays two generations, father and son or mother and daughter, while captions below detail their professions. And so we get a theatre group leader (in drag) with his acting student son, a pet shop owner with his (naked) porn star daughter, a retired sumo wrestler-turned-restauranteur with his son, also a retired sumo wrestler-turned-restauranteur. As in August Sander's famous series of German portraits, people are portrayed here not just in their family ties, but in their professions.

Sander has also influenced Shoichi Aoki, the pre-eminent street style photographer of his generation. But in a very different way: here it's the frontal, full-figure composition which recalls Sander -- the documentary style, the rectangular framing, the entomological pinning. What's gone from the photos in Aoki's three magazines, Tune, FRUiTS and Street, is any sense of what these people do for a living. Many, we suspect, are market traders, hair and make-up salon workers, secondhand clothes shop owners, furitas, students or dandy sponges living at home with their parents.



When we look at Kazu Asakura's street shoot in Sapporo for Shift zine, we get a slightly different set of people. These are the semi-professional "cafe girls" who interest themselves in art and design and frequent trendy cafes like the Shift Cafe many of these pictures are taken at. (Here I am two years ago making a podcast pilgrimage to that very cafe.) The Coromo Tokyo Street Style website gives us a different group again -- "professional" clothes shoppers in various parts of Tokyo. It's a reminder that, for some, consuming is also a kind of job, as essential to our society as Sander's clogged varnisher was to Cologne in 1930.



And then there are Rinko Kawauchi's keitai snaps. Here sociology has been replaced by a spiritually-infused subjectivity which transforms normal scenes -- a boy's bulbous head in an electronics store, a naked lightbulb flaring -- into something lonely, lyrical and mystical. No sociology here, no Sander; this is the world seen from the other side of the eye.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 09:42 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I don't know, I don't find a lot of interest in these "street style" photos you love so much. Something about the commodification of the "eccentric", until there is no eccentric left. I get the feeling none of these people would actually have anything interesting to say.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 09:51 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
What, not even the 3 year-old? Have a heart!

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:05 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
The three-year-old probably has interesting things to say, yeah. Not so sure about the parents that put her into a hipster uniform.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
What about the varnisher from Cologne, 1930? Would you chew the fat with him? What about?

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
I think behind my question is something like the following thought:

Does it really matter if we can talk to people? Why do we privilege talking over all other forms of communication, especially visual ones? In a city, I'm going to pass thousands of strangers in a day. I won't talk to more than a few of them, but there will be some cursory communication on the visual level. I will see their faces, interpret expressions, read bodies and body language, perhaps have a sexual fantasy or two, perhaps feel some essential spiritual affinity or repulsion, and... catch their clothes. I personally do find my day considerably brightened by visual contact with people I have no expectation of any other contact with. You don't?

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] stanleylieber.livejournal.com
I'm all for not talking. I think in many ways human intelligence has outstripped body language's ability to track it. My body might be telling you I'm embarrassed and wimpy when what I'm trying to say is that line 42 of your C code is going to case a segfault when somebody clicks on "open."

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:46 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I get your point. I suppose by guessing that these people wouldn't have anything interesting to say, I'm really saying I don't particularly find these people a priori interesting because of their clothes. Their clothes "play" with the idea of difference and eccentricity, but ultimately in a conventional way. In other words, they aren't really different and eccentric. They're actually tribal, conventional for a certain type of hipster culture. You identify yourself with that tribe (I'm guessing), so you find yourself more attracted to them, while at the same time indulging in the fantasy that you're attracted to them because they're different, outré.

OK, so I admit it, I'm wearing jeans at the moment...

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 10:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Perhaps I do feel an affinity with some of these people, yes. I'm not a fashion student or a hairdresser or even a graphic designer, as I suspect some of them are -- professional visual creatives. But I do sometimes "decide to be a flower", and they strike me as the kind of people who have "decided to be flowers". That might make you cringe, but I know exactly what I mean by it. Some people "decide to be flowers" rather than stalks and stems and roots. It's like the visual equivalent of the top level of Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs. (http://www.mcps.k12.md.us/schools/senecavalleyhs/childdev/maslow.htm)

It doesn't mean I'd befriend or talk to them, though. Normally, if I pass such people on my street (and my street here in Berlin is the kind of place you see people like this), there's a sense that we're too cool to stare or speak. We "clock" each other and try to look unimpressed. But we're secretly reassured.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 11:22 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Interesting. Reassured by what? That you've been clocked? That you belong to the same tribe? Is there a metaphoric Masonic handshake going on here?

The particular hipster "look" you're attracted to and occasionally sport yourself has an analogy with the rock world, where the poses and themes are all about rebellion, but in the most stiflingly derivative and conventional way possible. This hipsterism isn't so much about rebellion but is about difference and imagination (cf Momus's disdain for blue jeans). And yet the hipsters ultimately fall into the same trap as the rockers, expressing their 'difference' and 'imagination' in surprisingly conventional ways, in ways that you can 'read off' so easily (she's a hairdresser/fashion student, he goes to a lot of gallery openings...). You identify yourself with the art world, and fair do's: we all need our own world. N'empĂȘche que beaucoup d'artistes que tu cites ici semblent amazingly derivative, haven't really moved on from Warhol or Ono in the sixties, and are, in that regard, not so different from the Strokes or whoever...

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 11:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Reassured by what? That you've been clocked? That you belong to the same tribe? Is there a metaphoric Masonic handshake going on here?

I suppose it's reassuring to know that you chose an area that others with basically the same worldview chose too. It's nice when the process of infiltration is just beginning, as it is here in Neukolln, and there are still lots of working class people, immigrants and so on too. I don't like areas like Prenzlauerberg or Williamsburg where it's just hipsters. The "battle" has been won there, "our" values dominate. And that's the time to backlash against those values and embrace some other ones. This is, of course, classic pioneer snobbery, but it's founded in a love of diversity too. I like diverse areas. I vastly preferred Manhattan Chinatown to Williamsburg.

As for your "derivative" point, sure, I think I said something similar yesterday when I commented that Cornelius was, in a way, doing something quite similar to Straightener. He was just ripping off cool avant garde stuff whereas they were ripping off Green Day. But, you know, that's a huge difference, enough to separate the sheep from the goats. I think on its own the charge "derivative" is fairly meaningless. It's what we derive things from that makes us fresh or stale.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 12:27 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
FAO MOMOS
FAE BILLY MEGAHERTZ

MAGIC! MAIR JAPS IN THE SCUD!!! YA DIRTY BASSA!!!!!

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 01:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
(Wot, nobody here to tell me that Williamsburg actually has lots of Ukrainians and hasidic Jews? Quiet day...)

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 01:45 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I once had a hipster tell me that "Bedford is a little too hipster for my taste."

I think a hipster can live with himself so long as he's distracted. But once he looks in the mirror, so to speak, he starts to hate who he is (no fulltime job yet somehow living in $900/month apt, white ipod headphones, predictable outfit), and has to move away from it.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 01:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desant012.livejournal.com
You're forgetting the old Italians and Polish, too.

Bleh Williamsburg. I recently moved in with a friend who has a place there towards Greenpoint... when everyone's into the same weird crap, it's not very exciting. It's like a total monochrome, even if it's a bright primary color.

Of course NYC these days has a "fall in line!" type culture, so there's no fun, challenging eccentricity in any neighborhood or borough.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 02:02 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Did this conversation take place back in 2002?

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 02:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
I'm fine with people moving away from that uniform, as long as it's towards the more expressive end of the scale rather than the less expressive end. In other words, the potential for hipster enclaves to be conformist should not be the pretext to conform some more.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 02:29 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
I love the way the people of aokis photos always seem to avoid looking into the lens, compared to the rock-hard teutonic gazes of the sander people.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 02:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anglerfish96.livejournal.com
I'm way past getting sick and tired of this meaningless designation of "hipster"... what the hell does it really mean?

Fashion, architecture, art, etc. all have conventions rooted in their time, place, demographic, etc.-- they are language and can never escape the limitations of language. The complaints about "hipsters" never really convinced me because they always seem motivated by jealousy, insecurity, and ignorance. Really the same as rejecting anyone solely on how they speak, who they sleep with, or the color of their skin.

Of course we all have our prejudices. Those who recognize their bias and seek to understand those things outside their range of understanding are good people. Those of you who demonize others based on anything other than what you really know about them, go to hell.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 03:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] charleshatcher.livejournal.com
I think the important point is that though both Mr. Blue Jeans and Mr. Hipster are adhering to rather predictable tribal norms, the former unashamedly admits to this, whereas Mr. Hipster will have an air of "Ooh, look at me, I'm out there!" This snobby elitism is the problem.

And speaking of people who "decided to be flowers"...

Image

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 03:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fishwithissues.livejournal.com
i think the most radical thing about these photos (and your entry about them) is the idea that "real" anthropology can come out of shots that are entirely staged and manipulated by the photographer. It's very much a herzog idea, but when you add the idea of fashion in there you get something pretty pretty to look at/think about.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 03:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desant012.livejournal.com
Judging by your user picture, you're Mr. Hipster?

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 03:45 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desant012.livejournal.com
I think it has to do with society rejecting creativity - I mean, everyone gets called HIPSTER these days if they're not wearing baggy brown pants, baggy dress shirts, and doesn't have some business/money/power oriented work. If you're involved in anything creative, academic, etc., to any degree, you're a hipster - everyone who posts on this board would easily be designed one.

So, I think it has to do with society bristling against anyone who doesn't fall into the money, power, economy, productivity norm, even if designers, writers, fine? artists, etc., are as much part of the Machine (maaaan) as much as anyone else.

It's a weird time, I guess - the creative information economy replacing the older, traditionally masculine manufacturing, business one.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 03:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
When you say "entirely staged and manipulated by the photographer", which pictures do you mean? The Bruce Osborn shots are people in their own clothes, the clothes of their work, mostly, posing with their relatives in poses probably negotiated with Osborn. Same thing with Sander. The street fashion shots are people in their own clothes, stopped on the street. Sure, the photographer chooses the people and frames the shots, but to call this "entirely staged and manipulated" is really not accurate.

Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 03:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] niddrie-edge.livejournal.com
What exactly is being pioneered in these "areas"?
A New Way Of Seeing?
I am all for margins and edges and surviving them but the phrase "It's nice when the process of infiltration is just beginning, as it is here in Neukolln, and there are still lots of working class people, immigrants and so on too."
concerns me. There's almost a colonial exoticisation of the other about it.
Doesn't infiltration (in your sense) imply an agency unrelated to market forces like revanchism or regeneration of traditional communities. Or does it hang on their tails? Very often hipster infiltration is preying on the death of situations (working class culture) to gain leverage. Situations which, it could be said, lacked "vision".

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 04:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
What's being pioneered is of course the funky end of bobo -- bourgeois bohemia.

Exoticisation of the other is what I'm all about. I'm afraid I don't accept that it's always evil. There is such a thing as "the good other". The other we see in compassionate and well-researched anthropology documentaries, for instance; the other from whom we have "much to learn", the other who will save us from our conformism and our logistical shortsightedness.

There is no "death of working class culture" going on in Neukolln. Many new immigrants are arriving here from Africa, Turkey and Asia all the time. The hipsters are but a tiny percentage of this influx. And this might well be what distinguishes the "pioneer" areas I'm talking about from the "conquered" ones. In the conquered ones there are negative consequences. Hipster culture becomes a monoculture, the dominant one, and rents become unaffordable for anyone else.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 04:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] charleshatcher.livejournal.com
But in a post-structuralist kind of way. I see myself as above the elite. An effetist.

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 04:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] niddrie-edge.livejournal.com
Good points.
Its largely ignored how immigration almost preserves the traditional working class cultures rather than threatens them. The chattering classes in the media here seem to be really frightened of a rise of the angry right wing, white working class. It was almost personified in the short cull in Liverpool of Pit Bull Terriers.

As an aside.
I was looking for Baghdad art links and cannot find anything since 2004.
Then I read this amazing article from the Guardian.
Iraq a 'work of art in progress' says US general after 49 die (http://www.guardian.co.uk/Iraq/Story/0,,1938419,00.html)

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 04:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] charleshatcher.livejournal.com
Completely unrelated, but have you yet had the chance to viddy Transamerica? I really quite liked it, so you'll undoubtedly create a new philosophy to propound its pointlessness.

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 04:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desant012.livejournal.com
Oh, all bohemians are bourgeois bohemians - even the classic cases in 19th century France were middle-upper class kids who lived off their parents, and the American Beat movement was just an Ivy League clique.

I think if you look to US cities like Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, etc., there might be some creative energy going on for the same reasons as Neukoln ... though in a more depressed, suffocated way. NYC is gone, though... more immigrants and kids are going into NJ, concentrating the financiers, hipsters, etc., into one big ghetto in and around Manhattan.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 04:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] 33mhz.livejournal.com
Congratulations, you've just successfully regurgitated a criticism routinely leveled at beatnik culture in 1960s issues of Mad Magazine.

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 05:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Interesting, I've just checked out the blogs of a couple of people I would consider hipsters in the best possible sense, impressive hipsters, people either on my Friends List or people I discovered via Technorati because they were talking about my music. One of them has just moved to Philly, the other lives in New Jersey.

I love Sander.

Date: 2007-01-25 05:17 pm (UTC)

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-25 05:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Good lord, "Iraq a work of art in progress"! I'm sure the Chapman Brothers are working on a scale model as we speak.

I meant to add to my hipsters/immigrants a link (http://imomus.livejournal.com/217216.html) to my essay "The cosmpolitanism of the poor" which points up links between the two groups.

At the risk of sounding like some hippie...

Date: 2007-01-25 05:23 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Bruce Osborn's shots are all about mutual love and respect between parents and children. Unheard of! After looking at those portraits, I can't help but feel all those Fruits and hipster kids have parents too, and maybe they love them regardless of the big show they put on when they get dressed in the morning. And maybe if people didn't hate themselves so deeply, they could accept strangers as other people just doing their own thing.

Nick, I met you last summer in nyc, and you had this crazy outfit on and some sound reduction headphones around your neck. I thought to myself, if I didn't know who this guy was, I'd just lump him in with all the other new york weirdos. Luckily for me, I knew better. I know your tastes intersect my own in ways that are hard to showcase publicly. Plus I wear jeans.

- J

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 05:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] imomus.livejournal.com
Haven't viddied it, yet, no, droogy. Shall grab some nadsat nagoy devotchkas right now and viddy it all platching.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 05:38 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fishwithissues.livejournal.com
You're right, I over-generalized, and over-authorialized the snaps. What i should've said was that everyone in these photos looks like a fashion model with a deliberate pose, which as you say, was probably negotiated and agreed upon by the participants. My point is that this is in marked contrast to the style of National Geographic in which you'll often see people apparently unaware of the camera, perhaps engaged in a ritual.
Image

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 05:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fishwithissues.livejournal.com
...and that one style isn't more anthropological than the other.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 05:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] charleshatcher.livejournal.com
Well, okay... as long as they don't distract you from the best road movie since The Wizard of Oz.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 06:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fishwithissues.livejournal.com
or ethnographic.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 11:25 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Perhaps not everyone who posts on or reads this blog wishes to CONFORM to this loosely defined 'hipster' pigeon-holing, Desanto.
Thomas.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-25 11:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] intergalactim.livejournal.com
i really like these street style shots. looking through some of the London ones in "Street", i was thinking of "what people do". People riding bikes around those little lanes, cottage industry in courtyard offices, and being design or art students.

After reading some article on the Guardian website about how polluting cotton production is, the though of all the clothes that everyone is constantly buying just seems like such a waste. People I know, who dress particularly "interestingly" always seem to get their best things second-hand, rather thabn just being gad-about rich people. So in a way, I think that if it *is* a "lifestyle", then in a way it is less consumerist...

Also, along the same theme, I read an article explaining how if everyone in the UK replaced their normal TV's with the plasma screen version (as beloved by Brian Eno), then the country would need to build 5 new power stations (probably nuclear). I guess I'm hoping that if you are cool enough to be in Fruits, then at least it is a way of urban interaction, living in the community, interacting with others (verbally, visually, &c), rather than holed up at home with a zillion dvd's...

YOUR VIEW OF VIEWING

Date: 2007-01-26 12:51 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
REMINDS ME OF THE FEAR OF THE CAMERA THAT STEALS THE SOUL

YOUR VIEW OF VIEWING

Date: 2007-01-26 12:52 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ex-mimic736.livejournal.com
REMINDS ME OF THE FEAR OF THE CAMERA THAT STEALS THE SOUL

EXTRA EXTRA: SUBALTERN FINALLY SPEAKS!

Date: 2007-01-26 12:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ex-mimic736.livejournal.com
OL WHITEY, ENGROSSED IN LOOKING AND THE SOUNDS DOWN THE STREET, ASKS HER TO REPEAT

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-26 04:34 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] akabe.livejournal.com
why doesn't anyone mention the wonderful atget in this context ?

Image

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-26 05:57 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lord-whimsy.livejournal.com
Go to Philly. Not as much suck up/smack down scensterism down this way.

Re: Sons Of Pioneers

Date: 2007-01-26 05:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lord-whimsy.livejournal.com
There goes the neighborhood.

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-26 06:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wingedwhale.livejournal.com
furitas

Please, just say "freeters."

(no subject)

Date: 2007-01-26 12:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] 0marietta0.livejournal.com
Imomus!!!
This page es grear ---> http://www.freewebs.com/tokyo_candy/cutiemay06.htm

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